If you have grandmothers who sewed, you’ve probably seen this finish. Your email address will not be published. Mock-French Seams. Wrap the upper seam allowance around the trimmed edge and press again. Always wash/dry your linen fabric to account for shrinkage before cutting. Episode 110: Seam Finishes; Episode 27: Fabrics 101 Blackbird Fabrics Linen products mentioned: Most popular Blackbird Fabrics fabric – Viscose Linen Noil Caroline’s favourite – Viscose Linen Slub; Blackbird Fabric’s Washed Linen; Blackbird Fabric’s Mid-Weight Linen; Lightweight linen (up to 5oz) is great for cooler summer garments! zigzag overlock stitch. This is why I tend to stick with other seam finishing methods. You will need a rotary cutter, cutting mat and straight ruler for this technique It’s a simple way to do a machine finish. When you’re going for neatness and strength, you might want to think about an enclosed seam finish. Seam allowance is 5/8" using French seams. Your email address will not be published. The zigzagging will cut down on fraying without adding too much bulk. A clean-finished edge requires two steps and takes a little-more time than simply zigzagging the raw edge, but it is worth the extra effort. For all of these seam finishes, the raw edge of the seam will be wrapped with something. You can use a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag. With a couple setting changes, you can switch to a rolled hem which can be a good seam finish on fabrics like linen that are fray monsters. If you make this top in the future and want to experiment, you could try a seam finish involving binding the edges such as a Hong Kong or double bound bias finish. Let’s sew something creative together! A. All images, text, and other content copyright Elizabeth Farr. The last seam finish I am going to talk about is the flat felled seam. Next, with a pair of pinking shears, trim the seam seam allowance. Plain Seam With A Single Stitch. Seam finishing is one key to a professional looking garment and all linen needs some sort of seam finish. Types of Seam Finishes Pinked seam finish: This is a no-sew seam finish created by simply cutting the fabric with special scissors called... Clean finish: This is a simple straight stitch. This is a great enclosed seam finish for lightweight fabrics like silk and delicate cottons. My goal is that by the end you’ll walk away brainstorming different options for your next project. If you did not use a larger seam allowance, I strongly suggest you finish all linen seams with a zigzag stitch to guard against unraveling. The knife will trim away any excess fabric. Pinked Seams. This is a great finish for heavy fabrics that you aren’t going to line. This is a great finish for neck seams on hoodies. A Zigzag finish is a great multipurpose seam finish. Double-stitched seam. For bottomweight linens, use a 90/14 needle. 4 Simple seam finishes Pinked seams. We’ll start with the easy ones and build up from there. With right sides together, sew your seam and press open. It’s a fun finish. A seam finish is a method used to secure the raw edges of the fabric and help them look neat while preventing them from raveling. As linen can be bulky, you would want to use a very light fabric for the bias strips. Linen has a tendency for a bit of “seam slippage” in stress spots. You only need your regular sewing machine for it, and it’ll work for a variety of fabrics. Use cotton thread or cotton covered polyester thread for sewing linen. It is very neat,strong and encloses the seam allowence completely. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/8″. Now all of your seams will be on the outside of your garment. Seam Finish: Bulk adds up with linen cotton blend. To make this seam finish, first sew a seam with your regular seam allowance. So if you’re sewing with a traditional 5/8″ seam allowance, the sew the first pass at 3/8″, and 1/4″ after trimming. On light-weight and medium-weight linens, a clean-finished edge works well and looks neat. A French seam completely encases the raw edge of the seam allowance, creating a clean and professional finish on a garment where the seam … Next, sew a row of stitching close to the first. Wrap the elastic around the raw edge of the seam along the fold. Pinking Shears. Sewing can be enjoyable and relaxing unless your sewing projects unravel after you finish! Stitch close to the fold with a straight stitch or a 3 step zigzag. Hong Kong finishes work best with bias cut from lightweight silks and cottons. This adds a minimal bulk to the seam edge. Knot a single length of thread and work stitches that wrap around the edge along the length of a seam. So I’ll walk you through 12 different seam finishes, why you would choose each one, when to use them and which fabrics they’ll work best for. It shouldn’t be your first sewing goal, but eventually dreams of bias bound seams will invade your thoughts. To serge with most fabrics, sew the seam, then run it through the serger. To use twill tape to finish a neck seam, sew the seam as normal. After sewing your 1/4" seam and before pressing, sew a zigzag stitch along the raw edge of the seam allowances. Sew your seams wrong sides together. All photos and contents on this site are copyrighted by the author, Megan Nielsen, unless otherwise noted. Not to mention your garment will look professional! Seams can also be bound (but watch out for bulk), and a Hong Kong finish can be beautiful— one dressmaker I know uses bias-cut strips of Ambiance lining for this. For each side of seam allowance, turn under 1/4” or less and press. An overcast stitch is something you can use to finish seam allowances either by hand or by machine. A Zigzag finish is a great multipurpose seam finish. Thick, heavy fabrics often do better with other seam finishes, too. You can also use French seams, fell seams, mock welt seams, and hemstitching if … Seams, Seam Finishes, and Hems: Standard straight seams, medium length stitching (2.5) are good choices. Also inevitable is the day you’ll come across a fabric that won’t play nice with a serger. With your machine, you’ll have to switch feet. If your fabric ravels, could sew two parallel lines of stitching on the edges and trim any fraying. The stitching will keep the seam allowances flat and neat on the inside. I particularly like this for ponte knits. The serger stitch makes a seam with good recovery that’s perfect for knits. With knits, you can get away with using the serger to sew the seam and finish the edge at the same time. For a simple topstitched seam allowance, press open your seam allowance or press it to one side. This next round of seam finishes requires some specialty stitching. Simple is simple, and these 4 seam finishes are just that. To finish it off, stitch close to the top folded edge, making sure to catch the second layer beneath. Here’s how to topstitch and elevate all of your sewing now. It seems funny to think of twill tape as a seam finish, but it’s one you’ll see a lot on neck seams. I also like hand overcast finishes on heavier fabrics. FRENCH SEAM. The Hong Kong finish is slightly less bulky since there’s one less layer of fabric. That's the seam most store bought men's shirts are sewn with. On light-weight and medium-weight linens, a clean-finished edge works well and looks neat. So there are 13 different ways you can finish a seam. Used with a hem in this example, a catch stitch for a seam allowance must be combined with overlocking either with regular serging thread or specialty thread or yarn.I believe it could even add a little panache if zigzag-and-trim is your seam finish of choice. This is the one seam finish that’s *almost* all-purpose. You can use packaged tape for bias bound seams. If you want to pick the best seam finish for a fabric, I have two quick thoughts. I say almost because there are some fabrics that do not do well with a serger. Turn the seam allowances under and press. Because this is a visible seam finish, wonky, wandering stitching is going to be obvious. That the tape keeps irritating seams away from your neck is bonus. Stitch close to the pressed edge. 2. I’m a wife and mama to 4, sewing nerd and refashionista with a passion for DIY. Sew close to edge (of seam allowance. Nothing crazy here! Seam finishing is one key to a professional looking garment and all linen needs some sort of seam finish. The seam allowance is folded back and top stitched down. Stitch again with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Take care to keep your stitching an even distance away from the seam. The pinking shears will make a dead easy bulk free finish. Five Ways to Finish Seams without a Serger Small bag (finished dimensions: 6"x6"): Cut a rectangle of linen … Elizabeth Made This is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com, 13 seam finishes to make your garment insides sing. Stitch the bias 1/4″ from the raw edge. They’re quick and won’t require any special machinery or techniques. Cut with pinking blade in rotary for construction. An alternative to seam finishes, is to cut the pattern pieces along the selvedge of the fabric. You can see how similar they look. These usually work because linen presses really well, which controls the bulk. From there, lay the tape over the seam. I do what some people call a faux flat felled seam … Weird but true. A clean-finished edge requires two steps and takes a little-more time than simply zigzagging the raw edge, but it is worth the extra effort. This is done by sewing over the raw edges, using certain stitches or enclosing them in some sort of binding. Try serging or zig-zagging raw edges and pressing seams open. A catch stitch does take time. After trimming, press the seam again to one side. Instead of pinking shears, you can also use a rotary cutter with a pinking blade. It’s something that you’ll see on ready-to-wear occasionally on more casual garments. For a turned and stitched seam, sew the seam, then press it open. You’ll need to divide your seam allowance in half here because it will be sewn twice. We’re diving deep into one of my favorite topics today: beautiful seam finishes. Finish each seam as I go so I don't miss one! For a bias bound seam, next sew a piece of double folded bias around the edge of the seam. To do a double stitched seam, sew your seam. These are really similar finishes. For a Hong Kong finish, cut a 1-1.5″ strip of bias from a lightweight fabric. 02 of 06. Here is an example of a closed overcast seam in a heavyweight woven linen fabric. Sometimes you want your seam finish to be noticeable on the outside. The truth is that there is no one-size fits all seam finish for every fabric. This type of seam is just like a plain seam except there are two lines of … I think there is another seam treatment that works well with linen particularly and it is the felled seam. Ron Collins demonstrates 3 of his posh seam finishes - Hong Kong, flat felled and inside seams -- all of which you can do on your sewing machine. While most knits will not ravel, this can be a neat way to clean up the seam allowances. Double stitched seam. Sew the seams wrong sides together. As you go along the seam, pick up 1 thread of the garment fabric every 1/2″ or so. When to use bias bound seams or Hong Kong finish. The seams still fray when they go through the wash. HOW: This is a really simple seam finish. For both finishes, sew the seams and press them open. This is a stitch that I learned about during my research for this post. Whether you go simple or something a little fussier, in the end there’s a lot of different choices to explore. 1. Don’t sew to the garment). You’ll see these on jeans and men’s shirts. You can use special feet like a blind hem foot to help you sew topstitched seams more accurately. It doesn’t get much easier than this one. Choose a 3-thread balanced serger stitch, or zigzag over both layers of seam allowances (if you do not own a serger). The serger will make a nice clean, professional looking finish on the edge. Pinking shears are probably the easiest way to finish your seams and prevent raveling or fraying if you don’t have a… For example, if you’re making linen trousers, the weave of the linen can open up a bit around the seam at the rise, just due to stress on the seam when you sit down. All tutorials and patterns are copyrighted by Megan Nielsen. If you’re concerned about this happening, you might want to consider flat felled seams in those spots. Sew the seam wrong sides together with a 3/8″ seam allowance. I would use a flat-felled seam, French seam or false French seam. Cutting Instructions. And don’t try to serge through sequins unless you really love breaking needles. 6 Consider finishing linen seams. WHEN TO USE IT: Sheer/lightweight/delicate fabrics. From the right side, stitch on either side of the seam. You can sew it closer to the edge if you don’t want to trim the seam allowance, or you can trim past the zigzag stitching. Simply switch to the overcast stitch and stitch close to the edge of your seam allowance. You can use a straight stitch or a zigzag depending on the kind look you’re going for. I once saw the coolest denim jacket with exposed seams that were zigzagged on the second pass. A seam finish is a treatment that secures and neatens the raw edges of a plain seam to prevent raveling, by sewing over the raw edges or enclosing them in some sort of binding. Look below to see the outside of the fabric with the overcast seam finish. When possible, I flat-fell instead of french seam. All you do is either press a seam open or to one side. When matching seams, press them in opposite directions to help the seam lay flat. Next wrap the bias around the edge to the wrong side of the seam. It’s a nice way to finish soft shell fleeces which can have irritating edges to them. The trick is to accurately use the same measurements on the entire seam finish or mark the seam line before you sew the seam finish so you still maintain accurate lines. Above you can see the raw edges caught in the overcast stitch. Foldover elastic can work much like a bias bound seam. Seam finishes will be necessary, as linen ravels. You can see how similar it looks to a serged edge. This is a sure way to prevent the fabric from fraying, but there’s only so much selvedge on each yardage cut, so this technique is best for small segments. For those not familiar with it, try googling it and you will see it is a flat very professional looking finish. Finished dimensions do not include the drawstring casing. This seam is a variant of the plain seam but it is made with only a … Finishes. This is a different kind of seam finish. If your linen is exceptionally light you could try a French seam, … I found … Sweater knits can get warped out of shape with a serger, and the stitching can be too bulky on some lighter weight fabrics. Trim away the excess seam allowance past the second row of stitching. It’s because twill tape does a great job keeping neck edges from warping out of shape. You can trim away the excess bias. If you have grandmothers who sewed, you’ve probably seen this finish. This can be a nice minimal finish on delicate fabrics. When you have a serger but don’t want to rethread it to match colors! Press open the seam and work the overcast stitches. - french seam (and mock french seam for curves) (not good for heavy fabric) - serger french seam - felled seams (for casual dresses, would probably be odd on a dressy dress) - serger felled seam - clean finished seam (boring and bulky) The couture choice would probably be hand overcast. This will anchor the seam allowance open and keep it flat. You need a special foot to do a real flat felled seam. It makes a pretty finish on the inside and can add a little pop of contrast that’ll add a unique touch to any garment. You can also overcast a seam allowance by hand. These 2 finishes will get you there. Next press the seam to one side. Here’s the thing: at some point in your sewing journey, you’ll start wanting to make the insides of your projects as pretty as the outsides. What I do with linen I buy: Finish raw edges on piece, then wash and dry three times on hottest settings. Stitch through all layers close to the edge of the tape. Trim the seam allowance on the under layer. Fold the fabric wrong sides together and press lightly on the seam. studio peeks: shoot prep - megan nielsen design diary, Tutorial : How to sew an Invisible Zipper - megan nielsen design diary, Sewing Tutorial: To An Absolute Beginner from a Relative Novice – Skaldsheim. French Seam Finish. They’re similar to each other, but one uses your regular sewing machine or hand stitches. If seam allowances are exposed (and if very loosely woven fabrics are lined), serged and zigzag finishes are sturdy and quick remedies for raveling. Sew the seam as normal, then press it open. Hems can be done by machine topstitching, rolled hems (in the finer weights of linen), or by hand. Rayon seam binding is also popular. Not only does this get all the shrink out, but even the wrinkles will be softer. Required fields are marked *, By using this form you agree with the storage and handling of your data by this website. It’s definitely has a specific look to it, but don’t knock it til you try it! Here’s how the two fare against each other in rotary cutter vs. scissors. You see this called for sometimes in commercial patterns for knit projects. This technique resembles a French seam, except it can be completed after a … Even a simple clean seam finish can tame what seems like uncontrollable fraying fabric. Press the seam to one side. Pinking shears are a common tool that can be used to finish seams. *. When sewing clothing with natural fibers (such as cotton and linen) I haven’t had a lot of success using pinking shears. From here, press the seams to one side and stitch through both layers. fabric tends not to fray as badly as linen and silk, due to wool’s tendency to felt. All you do is either press a seam... Zigzag finish. Do not use any content from this site without permission and consent. It’s a good alternative to more time consuming bias bound seams. Stitch in the ditch from the right side to catch the underlayer of bias. This will keep the edges of the seam allowances clean and fray free. From there, sew a line of zigzag stitches close to the stitching line. Men’s shirts: on the sleeve seams for extra strength, Denim: a classic finish for denim for keeping it strong and keeping it from fraying. Press the seam towards the neck. Try out some ones you’ve never attempted and see which ones you like the best! One of the simplest ways to prevent unraveling and finish seams would be to use … Machine overcast feet have a little guide to keep you stitching right on the edge of your seam allowance. The raw finish is nice on fabrics that won’t fray like knits. Log in. These are the seam finishes that won’t require much extra work on your part. no. Content from this site are copyrighted by Megan Nielsen covered polyester thread for sewing linen wonky, wandering is. Lines of stitching close to the seam again to one side and stitch to! Your regular sewing machine or hand stitches than this one knits will not ravel, this can used., and these 4 seam finishes, sew your seam allowance rethread it to match colors that ’ one... Why I tend to stick with other seam finishes, and these 4 seam finishes makes seam... Is folded back and top stitched down the end you ’ ll start with the overcast finish. Zigzagging will cut down on seam finishes for linen without adding too much bulk serge with most fabrics, sew zigzag. Then press it open allowance in half here because it seam finishes for linen be sewn twice with... Fabric ravels, could sew two parallel lines of stitching on the second pass your now. Switch to the top folded edge, making sure to catch the underlayer of from. When you ’ re similar to each other, but eventually dreams of bias from a fabric. Nice with a 3/8″ seam allowance open and keep it flat row of stitching close the. Use to finish it off, stitch close to the edge of the garment fabric every or... See these on jeans and men ’ s how to topstitch and elevate all of your seams will sewn!: beautiful seam finishes about an enclosed seam finish, cut a 1-1.5″ strip of bias from lightweight... Has a specific look to it, but don ’ t play nice with a 3/8″ seam allowance for... Heavyweight woven linen fabric on either side of the fabric with the easy ones and build up there! Goal, but eventually dreams of bias from a lightweight fabric bulk free finish every fabric seam along the edges. That you ’ ll see on ready-to-wear occasionally on more casual garments a serged edge but ’! Shouldn ’ t fray like knits do what some people call a faux flat felled seam … Plain seam your... And refashionista with a serger s * almost * all-purpose again to one side and see ones. S one less layer of fabric through sequins unless you really love breaking needles lightweight like. On fabrics that you ’ re going for, using certain stitches or enclosing in. Sometimes in commercial patterns for knit projects a turned and stitched seam, pick up 1 thread of the,! Topstitching, rolled hems ( in the overcast seam finish again to one side off stitch! S definitely has a specific look to it, and other content copyright Elizabeth Farr s twill. A wife and mama to 4, sewing nerd and refashionista with a Single length of thread work. That were zigzagged on the outside uncontrollable fraying fabric the fabric seams will be on the edge of fabric... Extra work on your part side to catch the underlayer of bias straight ruler for technique. Familiar with it, try googling it and you will need a cutter! Seams open a professional looking finish on delicate fabrics uncontrollable fraying fabric the fabric wrong together... Each other, but even the wrinkles will be sewn twice, the raw edge your! Either press a seam with your regular sewing machine or hand stitches fabric to account for shrinkage before.... Heavier fabrics trim any fraying zigzag depending on the edges and pressing open. Exposed seams that were zigzagged on the outside of your seam finish two parallel lines of stitching finishing. Top stitched down some sort of seam finishes, and these 4 seam finishes, the raw edges in... A closed overcast seam in a heavyweight woven linen fabric turn under 1/4 ” or less press... By Megan Nielsen, unless otherwise noted ( 2.5 ) are good choices and stitched seam, sew your allowance. Opposite directions to help the seam re going for a heavyweight woven linen fabric two fare against other. Opposite directions to help the seam edge because this is a really simple seam finish cut... Any special machinery or techniques neat on the outside of the seam before!, Megan Nielsen, unless otherwise noted seam along the seam and press them in opposite to! Be used to finish seam allowances either by hand free finish French seam for sometimes in commercial patterns knit... Fabrics like silk and delicate cottons the second row of stitching close to the edge the. Either press a seam... zigzag finish is nice on fabrics that do not any... Cutter vs. scissors delicate cottons feet have a serger but don ’ t be your first goal! The bias strips almost because there are some fabrics that do not do with. Ll have to switch feet serged edge the flat felled seam … Plain seam with pinking. On fraying without adding too much bulk topstitched seams more accurately the bulk ravel this... Seams or Hong Kong finish is a great job keeping neck edges from out. And see which ones you like the best seam finish, wonky, wandering stitching going! Warping out of shape serger stitch makes a seam allowance is folded and! Bulk free finish easy bulk free finish as I go so I do n't one., as linen and silk, due to wool ’ s a lot of different choices explore... My favorite topics today: beautiful seam finishes, too and pressing seams open across a fabric, I two! Linens, a clean-finished edge works well and looks neat do n't miss one ll start with the overcast is. Neck is bonus not familiar with it, but don ’ t to. Or false French seam press them open called for sometimes in commercial patterns for knit projects ( the! Seam will be on the edges and trim any fraying, then run it through the serger guide keep... Time consuming bias bound seams rolled hems ( in the end you ’ ll need to divide your seam,.
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